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PoliGlow Kit - Complete
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This Complete PoliGlow kit contains everything you need to apply PoliGlow for the first time!

A good rule of thumb is 1 kit will cover a 32' boat up to 8 coats. The PoliGlow is applied in THIN coats, thus a little goes a long way! This complete kit contains a 32 oz. bottle of PoliGlow Finish, a 32 oz. bottle of PoliPrep Cleaner Concentrate, a PoliGlow applicator (FOR 2014 APPLICATOR IS UPGRADED TO THE IMPROVED MITT STYLE!), a scrubby Brush with handle, 1 set of scrubby gloves and complete instructions.

If applying PoliGlow to dark colors or metal flake finishes you'll want to use PoliOx prior to beginning with this kit.!

Includes our Bonus Offer: MyBoatStore's "Skippers Tricks-of-the-Trades Guide to PoliGlow" giving you our near decades worth of experience with the PoliGlow system FREE!

before PoliGlow After Poliglow Swim Platform Before PoliGllow Swim Platform After PoliGlow
boat before Poliglow After PoliGlow Personal Day Before PoliGlow Personal Day After Poliglow After PoliGlow  

 

Frequently Asked Questions

Q. What exactly is gelcoat?

Q. Why is my boat so dull & chalky looking?

Q. How does Poli Glow work?

Q Why not just wax?

Q. Approximately how many square feet will a 32 oz. bottle of Poli Glow treat?

Q. Why do you recommend so many coats initially?

Q. Can I apply Poli Glow without first using Poli Prep?

Q. Can I apply Poli Glow over appliqués, registration numbers, licenses, dock stickers etc.?

Q. Will my boat clean easier with Poli Glow on it?

Q. Is dry Poli Glow slippery? Should it be applied to "non-skid" areas?

Q. The supplied applicator does not appear to be getting the Poli Glow down into the recesses of my non-skid surface, now what?

Q. How about buffing?

Q. Can I wax after I apply Poli Glow?

Q. What kind of sprayer do you suggest for Poli Prep application?

Q. Does it make any difference whether I do the entire surface a coat at a time or work in smaller areas?

Q. I got the Poli Glow and followed the directions. I have some places where there are some runs, or sags, where I got more on in one area. Should I use the Poli Prep and remove excess, or try to cover with more Poli Glow in surrounding area? What is the best way to treat these areas.

Q. Do I need to use Poli Prep prior to my maintenance coats just like I did when initially applying the product?

Q. Will freezing temperatures affect my bottles of Poli Glow & Poli Prep in storage?

Q. I have just received my order of Poli Glow and am preparing to refinish my boat. The boat is currently out of the water for some repairs and a bottom job. I would prefer to do the deck and later do the topsides. Because the cleaner is also the remover do I risk ruining the newly refinished topsides by the water and cleaner runoff from the deck cleaning removing the finish? Can I do this in stages successfully? There is a lot of dust and dirt in the air in the boatyard and I am concerned that the part I clean will be dirty before I complete the hull and start putting restorer on.

 

Q. What exactly is gelcoat?
A. When a boat is made of fiberglass (mat and woven glass fibers layered up and impregnated with polyester resin), the outer finish is usually composed of polyester resin containing colored pigment. This layer is called gelcoat and is sprayed into the mold before laying down the layers of fiberglass matting etc. Because the inner surface of the mold is coated in a wax-based "mold release agent" when the boat is removed from the mold the outer surface (that you see) is the gelcoat. This is very shiny on a new boat because it has not yet been subjected to the elements. (Back)

Q. Why is my boat so dull & chalky looking?
A. Gelcoat ages by a sort of plastic rust called chalky oxidation caused by pollution, ultraviolet light (sunshine) and oxygen. The chalk is oxidation breakdown of the polyester gelcoat. Because the long chain polymer chains are broken into smaller and smaller pieces, the eventual process yields chalky material - sort of analogous to surface rust. However, Poli Prep can selectively dissolve the chalk without affecting the gelcoat. This is because the small molecules of chalk are more soluble than the long chain polymers of polyester of the gelcoat. By contrast, a non-selective solvent (acetone) will dissolve both chalk and polyester. However, (as for rust on steel) neglected gelcoat develops pores or micro crevices that are full of chalk and therefore increases porosity of the gelcoat itself. This chalk absorbs stains (rust, diesel smoke etc.) and makes white gelcoat lose much of its pristine look (self destructs). On colored gelcoat, the whitish chalk in the pores also makes it difficult to restore full depth to the color, even with much compounding. In the old days people would then recommend wet sanding down into the gelcoat (hopefully to reach "bottom" of the pores) and then polish and wax. (Back)

Q. How does Poli Glow work?
A. As mentioned above, when gelcoat ages the surface becomes microscopically pitted, thus reflecting light in different directions. This is why the surface looks dull. Poli Glow fills these pits and retards further oxidation by sealing the surface from the elements. In addition UV inhibitors are formulated into the product (sort of a sunscreen for gelcoat). (Back)

Q Why not just wax?
A. You probably have tried, and that's why you are reading this now.

  1. Wax, rubbing compounds and some polishes work by abrasion. Thus, you are actually removing layers of gelcoat every time you use these products. Remember, gelcoat is (on an average) only 10 mils thick (about 8 times thicker than paint). Every time you wax you are actually removing gelcoat, eventually you could remove it all.
  2. You probably use wax on your boat because you were taught to do so by your parents or grandparents. Your parents and grandparents had no other options. However, YOU do! While wax products do have their place (cleaning etc.), they in-fact will eventually do more harm than good on your gelcoat surface.
  3. Waxing will soon streak and oxidize in it's own way. You probably have noticed this already. (Back)

Q. Approximately how many square feet will a 32 oz. bottle of Poli Glow treat?
A. A good rule of thumb is 1 kit (32oz.) will do a 32' boat up to 8 coats. The product is applied in THIN coats, thus a little goes a long way! (Back)

Q. Why do you recommend so many coats initially?
A. Depending upon the condition of your gelcoat, Poli Glow must "build-up" to completely fill the microscopic pits & voids. There is no way this can be accomplished with just one application, much like varnish. After that one "maintenance coat a year should suffice". (Back)

Q. Can I apply Poli Glow without first using Poli Prep?
A. We don't recommend it. Poli Prep is specifically formulated to remove any oxidation and wax that may reside in your gelcoat. You wouldn't think of painting a dirty car, would you? (Back)

Q. Can I apply Poli Glow over appliqués, registration numbers, licenses, dock stickers etc.?
A. Absolutely! In the event you need to remove any "stickies" just use the Poli Prep to remove the Poli Glow in the area of interest, remove/replace and re-apply Poli Glow over the area. (Back)

Q. Will my boat clean easier with Poli Glow on it?
A. While Poli Glow will seal the gelcoat surface, thus reducing penetration of foreign substances, the Poli Glow surface can of course become dirty. Just wash with soap and water. (Back)

Q. Is dry Poli Glow slippery? Should it be applied to "non-skid" areas?
A. The Poli Glow surface will reduce the effectiveness of molded "non-skid" if it fills in the voids that provide the traction. When traction is of significant importance: high foot traffic, competitive boating, and commercial applications, we recommend the use of our non-skid product Woody Wax Non-Skid Deck Wax for the deck. However, many of our customers (myself included) have used it on non-skid with no problem. Just be sure that all wax/polish is completely removed prior to application. If the non-skid is particularly aggressive, use a disposable foam brush and apply in even strokes, just like varnish. If the Poli Glow bubbles using the brush, just apply less pressure and resist the urge to go over any holidays (where you missed) while the product is still wet. They can be addressed with the next coat. (Back)

Q. The supplied applicator does not appear to be getting the Poli Glow down into the recesses of my non-skid surface, now what?
A. In the event the non-skid is too aggressive (deep) for the chamois applicator that is supplied with the kit, just use a disposable foam brush to apply the Poli Glow to the non-skid ONLY. If you try to use the brush on a smooth surface you will probably get bubbling/foaming. Use the foam brush technique only on non-skid using the same smooth/even strokes you would use with the chamois applicator, if you get bubbles using the foam brush you are probably pressing too hard. (Back)

Q. How about buffing?
A. Poli Glow is not a wax! There is no buffing required. The product dries to a smooth shiny surface in just 60 seconds. You buff when waxing and compounding to remove the dead gelcoat. (See Q. "Why not just wax?) (Back)

Q. Can I wax after I apply Poli Glow?
A. Remember, Poli Glow eliminates waxing once and for all. It would be self-defeating to apply wax over the Poli Glow surface, and possibly could dull your surface depending on the abrasive properties of the wax. (Back)

Q. What kind of sprayer do you suggest for Poli Prep application?
A. We recommend a simple hand held "squeeze trigger" type of sprayer, available at any hardware/garden store. You only use enough diluted Poli Prep to wet the surface lightly so a garden (pump-up) type of sprayer would be overkill, although it would certainly work. (Back)

Q. Does it make any difference whether I do the entire surface a coat at a time or work in smaller areas?
A. Either way will work just fine. The important thing is to have applied the same number of coats when you are finished. (Back)

Q. I got the Poli Glow and followed the directions. I have some places where there are some runs, or sags, where I got more on in one area. Should I use the Poli Prep and remove excess, or try to cover with more Poli Glow in surrounding area? What is the best way to treat these areas.
A. Just use the Poli Prep on the run/sag areas to remove the Poli Glow and re-apply. The areas will blend in with the existing Poli Glow already on the surface. Next time remember, use thin coats. It will eliminate running! (Back)

Q. Do I need to use Poli Prep prior to my maintenance coats just like I did when initially applying the product?
A. No, No a thousand times No. Poli Prep is used for 2 things. One is to remove oxidation/wax etc. prior to your initial application of Poli Glow. Two is to remove the Poli Glow (for appliqués/ stick on lettering etc.) (Back)

Q. Will freezing temperatures affect my bottles of Poli Glow & Poli Prep in storage?
A. Freezing will NOT effect the qualities of the products. It may however cause the PoliGlow to become "lumpy". If this occurs simply strain these out and proceed as normal. (Back)

Q. I have just received my order of Poli Glow and am preparing to refinish my boat. The boat is currently out of the water for some repairs and a bottom job. I would prefer to do the topsides and later do the deck. Because the cleaner is also the remover do I risk ruining the newly refinished topsides by the water and cleaner runoff from the deck cleaning removing the finish? Can I do this in stages successfully? There is a lot of dust and dirt in the air in the boatyard and I am concerned that the part I clean will be dirty before I complete the hull and start putting restorer on.
A. Go ahead and do the hull normally (per instructions). When you do the deck just be sure and use copious amounts of water when you hose the Poli Prep off. I have personally done my sailboat this way and had absolutely no problems with runoff ruining the topsides job. Again, just use lots of water, don't let the Poli Prep sit too long on the surface, and you will be just fine! (Back)

 

NOTE: We have attempted to include the most commonly asked questions re: PoliGlow. In the event you have an inquiry not covered in this forum or instruction sheet please contact us at contact us and we will respond directly to you. We are very interested in answering ALL questions, so please do not hesitate to ask!

 

 

Practical Sailor LogoFiberglass Hull Restorers: 21 Month Report

 

 

Of the DIY products tested, PoliGlow, New Glass, and Vertiglas show the most gloss and last longest. Professionally applied Microshield is even better, but costs more.

Remember when your boat was new? Chances are that if you've had it for more than a few years, the once-shiny gelcoat has become dull and, if it were a color other than white, faded and a bit blotchy looking. The past few years have seen a proliferation of products designed to bring back the new, glossy look to weathered topsides. These "hull restorers" are typically more durable than waxes though less durable than a high-quality paint. Most of these products are also less expensive and easier to apply than paint.

We've been conducting tests on eight such products (we originally had a ninth, but it has been discontinued) for the past two years, with more than 21 months of actual exposure to the elements. We looked at them after a year of exposure (PS, July 1, 1998 and PER, May 1998), re-applied the restorers--they don't claim to last for more than a year or so with a single application--and put them back out to Gelcoat, Fiberglass, Wax, Boat, Boatwax, Paradigm Productsweather. To reiterate what we've said previously, these products are best thought of as temporary fixes. All of them can dramatically improve the appearance of a weathered fiberglass surface, but you'll probably have to plan on yearly applications. Our current tests are set up to answer two basic questions about these products: Can you successfully recoat the surface without stripping off the old product? And how difficult is it to remove the product?

How They Work

There's nothing mysterious about restoring the appearance of a fiberglass surface. When the boat is new, the gelcoat is very glossy and has a uniform color. After exposure to sunlight and weather, however, the outer surfaces of finely divided particles of opaque pigment that are suspended in the resin change color from the effects of UV and oxidation. Degraded pigments tend to become lighter in color, turning a yellowish gray. Because not all surfaces are exposed to the same sun and weather conditions, the color becomes blotchy as well as faded. At the same time, UV rays and weather cause the smooth surface of the gelcoat to become microscopically pitted. A smooth surface appears glossy because almost all the rays of light that strike the surface are reflected back in the same direction; a pitted surface scatters the reflected light and appears dull.

Restoring the surface's appearance, then, involves two things: removing the discolored outer layer of pigment (it's not feasible to reverse the weathering process) and providing a smooth surface to restore gloss. Removing the outer layer of the pigment is a mechanical operation involving scraping or grinding off the surface layer with an abrasive. Sandpaper would work, but it's generally too coarse for the job making the surface smooth a much more difficult task. The more common approach is to use a very fine abrasive powder suspended in a liquid. If the abrasive is extremely fine, the mixture is called a polish; if the abrasive is somewhat coarser, it's called a rubbing compound. The more severely weathered the fiberglass, the coarser land therefore more aggressive) the abrasive should be. Slightly weathered topsides respond well to polishes; more severe weathering calls for compounding, followed by polishing. The objective, of course, is to obtain a uniform color. Once the color is uniform, the next step is to keep polishing the surface until it's as smooth as possible. It's almost impossible to obtain the microscopic smoothness that's required for a high gloss, but it's a good idea to remove as many small gouges and scratches as possible. The next step is to apply a transparent film that will fill the microscopic pits and valleys, leaving a smooth surface. Water ill do the job for a very short while, until the water evaporates. The trick is to find a material that will keep that "wet" look for an extended period of time. Wax is the classic choice. It does a pretty good job of providing a smooth surface and lasts for a good bit longer than water. In our experience, a typical wax job will last about three months. Some wax products--those that contain harder, higher-molecular-weight waxes can last up to about six months. These are usually paste waxes rather than liquids and are correspondingly more laborious to apply.

Fiberglass restorers use even higher-molecular-weight ingredients--acrylics or acrylic-urethane resins--as film-formers. These products consist of water-based emulsions of droplets of resins. When the water evaporates, the resin coalesces to a clear film that's insoluble in water. The emulsions have low viscosities-much like water or liquid floor waxes--and dry rapidly. These characteristics make for easy application but also mean that relatively little film is left after one application. Multiple coats are required, but the low viscosity means that application is easy, and the quick-drying means that you don't have to wait for more than a few minutes between coats.

Instructions for the products we tested typically call for about five initial coats, with three maintenance coats at the end of each year.

What We Tested

Gelcoat, Fiberglass, Wax, Boat, Boatwax, Paradigm ProductsThe eight products we're testing were selected after an exhaustive canvassing of boat shows, chandleries and catalogs. We looked for any product that claimed to restore fiberglass and wasn't a wax. We found seven do-it-yourself (DIY) restorers and one that's only marketed as a professionally applied product. Most of the products are sold as kits--cleaners, strippers, polishes, and final coat, or some sub-set of these. Most come with applicators and instructions of varying detail; one even comes with an instructional video, which seems to us to be carrying things a bit far. From our experience, all of the products are reasonably easy to use. One caution we'd emphasize (for all the products) is that the surface be clean and of a uniform color before you apply the clear top-coat.

The Tests

This year's testing was a continuation of a program started back in 1997. At that time, we took a series of well-weathered fiberglass panels that we had sawed from the hull of a wrecked sailboat and applied each hull restorer to a panel following manufacturers' instructions. In the case of Microshield, the only dealer-applied product, we sent a panel to the manufacturer, who applied the product. Prior to restoration, all the panels were mottled, with a dead flat surface exhibiting no trace of gloss. After restoration, all had been dramatically improved (see the chart above for initial gloss readings). Before exposing the panels to the weather, we tried placing a drop of water on each panel (a panel that's protected will cause the water to form a distinct bead, rather than spreading out to a shallow puddle). We also made judgments about each panel's appearance, and then measured the gloss level of each, using our own gloss measurement system that has worked well for us in the past. We made a mirror-image "yardstick"-actually only two feet long--and placed it perpendicular to the panel that was to be measured. We shone a light on the ruler, using a constant light source and a constant angle of illumination, and looked at the yardstick's reflection in the restored panel. The glossier the surface, the more of the yardstick scale was reflected, and the higher the number that could be read. We then left the panels outdoors on south-facing racks tilted to 45", and left them there observing their appearance periodically. After a year, we took the panels off the rack, washed off surface dirt with a soft brush and a solution of liquid dishwashing detergent, and tested for beading and measured the gloss again. We then divided each (except for the Microshield-treated panel) in half and applied three maintenance coats to half the panel, without removing the material that had been applied. We stripped the other half-panel down to bare fiberglass using the stripper provided with each product or, if no stripper was provided, with the stripper from another product. We then re-applied fresh restorer per instructions (usually about five coats).

We didn't do anything to our Microshield-treated panel. The product claims eight years of protection, and, in any case, we didn't have any material to recoat it with, because the panel was prepared by Microshield and not by us.

Our reasoning was simple: It's easier to add maintenance coats to an existing product, but we wished to find out if we Gelcoat, Fiberglass, Wax, Boat, Boatwax, Paradigm Productscould get a better appearance by stripping and recoating. We also wished to see if stripping was difficult, as some readers have said. The panels then went out to their racks again. Our test season was shortened somewhat by the necessity of moving our test racks from Connecticut to Newport, Rhode Island (our landlord in Greenwich, Connecticut, wanted his roof back), but we did get nine months of additional weather testing.

The Results

To summarize the findings in last year's report, all the panels still beaded water after a year's exposure, gloss had declined on all panels and all (except Microshield, which we didn't try) stripped easily. Microshield emerged with the highest gloss, followed--at a distance--by New Glass and Poll-Glow. TSRW and Vertglas also showed some gloss retention, while the other products had all but vanished, at least in a visual sense. The one wax tested--the now discontinued Boat Armor Microshine--gave up after a few months as far as gloss was concerned and wouldn't cause water to bead after six months. Don't be misled by the gloss numbers; even a minimal gloss (such as 1) is a vast improvement over no gloss at all.

We found that all the products stripped easily, with the sole exception of TSRW (whose QuickStrip didn't live up to its name, convincing us to finish with New Glass Stripper, which worked well). Sea Breeze didn't come with a stripper, so we used Vertglas stripper. We reported previously that poll-Glow doesn't come with a stripper. It does. We tried it on another section where it worked well. We also found that one can get about the same gloss after applying three maintenance coats to the weathered surface as we did when stripping the surface and starting from scratch. This year, after an additional nine months, the results compare to last year's on both recoated and stripped-and-recoated halves of the panels. Microshield is still holding up very well after 21 months. Last year's two winners in the DIY class--New Glass and Poll-Glow-again led the pack with respectable gloss retention. They were joined by Vertglas. When we first tried Vertglas we had applied it with a cloth, rather than a sponge applicator. For the recoating of the panel, we practiced with Vertglas' brush/sponge applicator and obtained both a much better initial gloss and a longer-lasting gloss.

Except for one product--Sea Glass Sea Protector--we could discern no real difference between the panel halves that had been simply recoated and the ones that had been stripped and recoated. The recoated side of the panel treated with Sea Glass Protector seemed a bit more milky in appearance than the side that had been stripped before recoating.

Conclusion

The best of these products work. They're not magic, though. If you insist on having your boat look new, the surest way is to buy a new boat frequently. Two-part polyurethane paints, such as Awlgrip, Imron and Interthane, will do a fine, long-lasting job ... at a price. A paint job with one of these paints will probably run you about $100-$200 per linear foot, if applied professionally. Expensive, yes, but in our opinion, a boat with faded gelcoat is a good candidate, sooner or later, for a paint job. Fiberglass restorers simply postpone the job and expense. Intermediate in cost as well as Gelcoat, Fiberglass, Wax, Boat, Boatwax, Paradigm Products(probable) durability is Microshield. The cost of a Microshield job will depend on the size and style of your boat; we couldn't get a simple estimate from the manufacturer. If you're interested, you're best off contacting them directly. The DIY restorers generally sell for $35 to $60 per kit, which will handle a 25-foot boat. New Glass, Poll-Glow or Vertglas, our longevity winners, should provide reasonable gloss for a season in most climates. Application of three maintenance coats once a year should keep the boat glossy, if not new-looking. They all dry in minutes, so you can recoat by working your way around the boat and just keep going until you've completed three circuits. We've heard scattered reports of some of these products going milky, yellowing, flaking or cracking, as well as reports that stripping is difficult. In six years of testing products of this type, we've never encountered any of these problems. We've applied restorers to a variety of small craft that live outdoors, with no signs of trouble. This year we stripped a Sunfish sailboat that had been receiving maintenance coats of New Glass for the past five years. It stripped easily.

The one report we haven't been able to check out is that of yellowing. Unfortunately, the wreck from which we carved the test panels had a yellow gelcoat. For this year, we're planning on adding on some new panels in white and/or red. Should you use a fiberglass restorer on a new boat to provide added protection? We think not. You'd have to sand or scuff the surface to get the restorer to adhere well. Wax is a better choice.

For older boats that have become dull and streaky, however, fiberglass restorers offer an economical, inexpensive means of making your boat look shiny again, and keeping it that way for a reasonable period of time without an exorbitant amount of effort. Our picks are PoliGlow, New Glass and Vertglas, with TSRW close behind. Microshield is still the most effective product we've found to restore gloss to an old boat. If it holds up for a few more years, its higher price tag may well prove to be worth it.

© Copyright Belvoir Publications, Inc. All rights reserved. April 1999

 

 

Applying POLIGLOW

 

PREPARATION OF SURFACE

Do not use rubbing or polishing compound to clean boat!  Please use Poli Prep. Poli Prep is a concentrated cleaner (wear rubber gloves.) Do not use full strength. Dilute three parts water to one part Poli Prep. Wet area with water then apply Poli Prep with a household trigger sprayer. Treat Poli Prep like soap, scrub area, clean and rinse with water. Oxidation and stains must be removed (Poli Glow will seal in any stains on surface, i.e. shiny stains.)

All dark colors have to be uniform with no light variations. Dark colored areas sometimes get a sunburned film or bleached layer over them. This needs to be removed. If the Poli Prep method does not remove enough oxidation, use Poli Ox (Stain and Heavy Oxidation Remover) or 400 – 600 grit wet/dry sandpaper. Rub until there is a uniform color. You should be through the bleached layer.

The surface does not need to be shiny for the application of Poli Glow, just clean and UNIFORM in color. Let dry for one hour before applying Poli Glow. POLI PREP MAY STREAK OR REMOVE BOTTOM PAINT. POLI PREP WILL NOT HARM VINYL GRAPHICS.

APPLICATION OF POLI GLOW

Minimum of 4-6 coats. Each coat will dry in approximately one minute (5-10 minutes at 55 degrees); make sure each coat is dry before applying additional coats. There is now one formed applicator, which replaces the 2 included in previous kits. For a pole mountable applicator that can be fastened to any threaded pole contact your PoliGlow dealer. 

Do not treat Poli Glow like a wax; instead apply Poli Glow instead like a varnish. It should be applied to the surface gently. Do not push down on applicator. This may cause foaming or bubbles which may dry rough.  Do not stop moving the applicator during application; instead pull away from surface gradually. If drips occur, remove them with applicator before they dry. Avoid windy conditions.

Now it’s time to apply Poli Glow. This is the easy part. Apply Poli Glow to the applicator and allow a minute to soak into applicator. Pick a small 2’ x 2’ flat surface and apply 4-6 coats to see what Poli Glow will do. Working in small sections (3-4 feet), LIGHTLY WIPE Poli Glow onto the surface in THIN, even strokes. Make sure application is dry, approximately one minute at 75 degrees F, (10 minutes at 55 degrees F) before applying the next coat. If you go over Poli Glow before it is dry, you will get streaking or brush marks. If this occurs you can lightly sand streaks with 600 grit sandpaper and wipe clean.

Poli Glow may be applied in direct sunlight except with dark colors. When overlapping you may see areas that appear shinier. They will disappear in 24-48 hours. Avoid contact with rain for several hours. If water spots occur they will disappear after a few hours in the direct sunlight. Poli Glow is safe to apply over vinyl letters or graphics. ALWAYS APPLY GRAPHICS TO AREA BEFORE APPLYING POLI GLOW.

MAINTENANCE

Poli Glow is a unique product. It will not wash off or be affected by soap and water. A mild boat soap will keep you boat shiny and clean. To maintain a shine for more than 12 months, reapply two or three coats at the beginning or end of each season. In tropical areas reapply Poli Glow every 6-8 months. To reapply, clean boat with soap and water and apply Poli Glow. If stains are left on the surface and penetrate the Poli Glow, use Poli Ox (Stain and Heavy Oxidation Remover) to remove the stains. Then reapply Poli Glow. If scratches or wear spots occur, they can be touched up by applying a few coats of Poli Glow. Maintenance is easy, as dirt and grime will not adhere to the Poli Glow finish. Avoid contact with ammonia-based products, degreasers, teak or hull cleaners and abrasive cleaners.

REMOVAL OF POLI GLOW

RUBBING COMPOUND WILL NOT REMOVE POLI GLOW!! Using Poli Prep for the removal of Poli Glow, use one part Poli Prep to two parts water. Using the mist or fine setting on sprayer, apply a thin coat of Poli Prep solution on dry surface. Scrub with stiff brush or scrub pad. Rinse thoroughly with clean water. If you allow Poli Prep to dry before rinsing, Poli Glow will harden. You then will need to reapply Poli Prep. Working in small 4 to 5 foot square areas is best for easy removal.

REAPPLICATION OF POLI GLOW

Clean the area with soap and water. If you have stains that have penetrated Poli Glow or blotchy areas, you can use Poli Ox (Stain and Heavy Oxidation Remover) to clean the area. If Poli Glow has started to break down and started to come off, you may have to remove Poli Glow with Poli Prep (see directions under removal of Poli Glow). Reapply 3 coats of Poli Glow to area to restore shine.

 

 
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53 Product Reviews - Average rating 5 / 5 (Show All)

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I can't tell you how...

Gary R Barton - 7/16/2012

I can't tell you how great it was to use a product that does just what it says it will do!!! I do have to say though polyglow actually makes my boat look better it made my boat look BRAND NEW!

Online ordering was easy!

Ed - 7/10/2012

Online ordering was easy, PoliGlow was delivered quickly. Used it on my RV and the results were fantastic. Great product!

Great product!

Livingstone - 4/11/2012

Great product; Pricey, but worth it in the restoration of boats or fiberglass motor homes. Love the stuff.

It is nice when you buy s

Paul - 4/10/2012

It is nice when you buy something that works as advertised.

I own a 1978 30ft Sisu ch

Charlie - 3/20/2012

I own a 1978 30ft Sisu charter boat I operate in MA, It is original gel coat I spent hours every year buffing and waxing the hull; Last September I had major shoulder surgury and am still recovering, I could not hold the buffing wheel over my head for any...

I've been using Poly-

Chuck - 2/21/2012

I've been using Poly-glow for several years now and am highly satisfied. The product works for years and makes cleanup a breeze. My Boat Store always ships on time and has been a pleasure to work with.

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bullet Grez-Off
bullet IMAR 301 & 302
bullet Metal Mate
bullet PoliGlow
bullet PoliOx
bullet Poop Off
bullet Premium Marine Polish
bullet Prism Polish
bullet Rescue Tape
bullet Rust Stain Remover
bullet ScotchGuard
bullet Spray Nine
bullet TeakGuard
bullet Trewax
bullet Ultra Gloss Compound
bullet Woody Wax

bullet Bilges
bullet Biminis
bullet Carpets
bullet Covers
bullet Cushions
bullet Dodgers
bullet Dry (Wet Suits)
bullet Enclosures
bullet Engines
bullet Fabrics
bullet Fiberglass Hulls
bullet Glass Windows
bullet Inflatable Boats
bullet Lifejackets
bullet Metals
bullet Patio Furniture
bullet Plastics
bullet Sails
bullet Seals
bullet Ski Jackets
bullet Teak
bullet Tires
bullet Wood